Expensive vs. Value-Oriented Wines

Are expensive wines really worth the extra money? I am not a wine expert. Will I be able to tell the difference between a value-priced wine and a more expensive one? Why do some wines cost so much more than others. Aren’t they all made the same way? These are all great questions that wine consumers ponder but are often afraid to ask because they may feel intimidated by a lack of knowledge. Let’s get something on the table right away. Restaurateurs and wine professionals do not want anyone to be intimidated about wine or inhibited from asking questions. Wine should be fun. Gather up your sense of adventure and experiment. We’re here to help. Let’s explore the answers to these questions.

Experimentation was the operative word for our High/Low wine dinner which we hosted in The Golden Sheaf in February. We structured the dinner to serve two wines with each course, one of which was at least twice as expensive as the other. Our guests were encouraged to taste the wines “Blindly” and to rate them, not knowing which was more expensive until after they had selected their favorite. As you can imagine, some guests preferred the more expensive wines and some the more value-oriented wines. That is why there is both chocolate and vanilla. People have different taste and flavor preferences. So let’s eschew the intimidation factor and agree that people know what they like whether they are a world class wine expert or a raw novice. But, what are the answers to the questions I posed?

Let’s start with why some wines are more expensive than others. Admittedly, there are many complex factors that determine this. One of the most important factors is a concept called “Terroir.” Terroir is a French word that does not easily translate into English but essentially refers to all elements that define a sense of place. They include soil profile, geography, geology, climate, wind, sun exposure, flora and many other elements. While there are poorly made wines from areas with great terroir, there are far fewer good wines made in regions with undesirable terroir.

Another very critical factor in the price/quality equation is the quantity of grapes yielded per acre of hectare. This varies by, among other things, the canopy management of the grapes. A value-oriented producer will often yield much higher quantities per acre. More expensive wines result from lower yield, where vineyard managers have pruned vines and grape bunches leaving only the most desirable fruit.  This allows the plant to channel all of its nutrients into a smaller number of branches. The result is fruit with greater concentration and depth.

There are also many factors in the vinification and aging process that impact price and quality. Methods of fermentation used, whether fermentation is done in stainless steel or oak barrels, the type of oak barrels used, the degrees to which the barrels are toasted and the age of the barrels all impact quality. Additionally, the length of time a wine is aged is also a significant factor. Wine barrels average between $800-$1,200 per barrel in cost. As you can imagine, a winery aging wine in a new, high quality barrel will incur more cost than one aging in an older barrel. If you used grapes from the same vineyard block and aged the fermenting wine in the two barrels described above, you would end up with two very different wines.

The amount of time a wine is aged in oak barrels also impacts the price and quality. When sitting in an oak barrel, the wine is interacting with the oak and having flavors imparted to it. The longer it is exposed to the oak, generally, the more complexity it will develop. Price is also impacted by length of aging because the expensive barrel is tied up and cannot be used.

So, are expensive wines really worth the extra money? From a production standpoint, the added care and cost involved in producing an expensive wine can justify the price. From a consumption and enjoyment standpoint, you have to decide. You will be able to tell the difference between two wines. Try this. Go to the PLCB wine and spirits shop and buy two wines from the same winery (pick your favorite) made from the same grape with one wine costing $8-$10.00 and the second costing $20-$25.00. Taste them each blindly and compare and contrast the color, aroma, taste, mouth feel and finish (the amount of time the flavor lingers in your mouth and throat) and make a judgment. I would be interested in your conclusion and your comments. Remember, wine is fun and meant to be enjoyed. Trust your palate – you know what you like. One of the world’s foremost wine experts, Harry Wall of Harry’s Wine Bar in Paris was once asked if he ever confused Burgundy with Bordeaux when tasting. He replied, “Not since lunch.”

Have fun, experiment and enjoy! - Bill Kohl